Flowers, svimvear and officials

Friday – June 8, 2007

Let me tell you: a commercial for MR. CLEAN in Russian is a hoot. Seems the Russians have the same problem we do – company coming over shortly and the house is a mess.
If only I could have pulled Mr. Clean from a bottle today to help manage our schedule. We met our guide-interpreter at 8:30 am and the program was jammed full. We spent the day at Tula State University. Among the stops – a wellness clinic for students unlike anything you’ve ever seen or can imagine. Up to 100 students can be treated at any time. Students are referred by a campus doctor if they appear on the verge of getting sick or suffering emotional/mental health troubles.
Wait til you see the pix when my video story airs later this summer.
The students ‘dorm in’ for 21 days. During the day they undergo treatments including laser light to their nose, pulsed electricity to the head if stress is causing hair loss and underwater massage. They take their meals together and food is geared toward health – like special tea cooked with fruit – compote, it’s called.
Fortified by that beverage ( quite nice, a little too sweet though and it hadn’t had time to cool – I’m told it’s supposed to be consumed at room temp) we watched as Charlotte Buchanan presented grants to three teachers at the University. It was a very big deal. Tula TV and newspaper reporters were on hand. It was like being at a press conference in Albany and seems media people dress alike and do the same things, everywhere. I mentioned this to one of the photographers who understands English – he laughed, said he expected as much and was glad to know he was like his American counterparts.
That’s a recurring theme: despite national pride, theTulans want to be like Americans. They want to talk with us, to know what we’re doing and if they’re doing it like us. I remarked to our guide this morning that I didn’t see too many people using I-pods. She said, more and more kids have them; that they want anything Americans have.
On the flip side, when you talk with officials they’re loath to tip their hats to what Americans bring to their table – not in a rude way – more like, don’t tell me my baby’s ugly. It seems generational – just as you see remnants of the ‘Soviet Time’ on older buildings, you see some of that close to the vest attitude among those who lived most of their life during the Soviet Time.
And that’s another thing: the life expectancy in Tula is alarmingly short .. 58 for men I was told by a professor today, 66 for women. He was incredibly open about the need for the Tula Alliance to continue and help them find methods for battling environmental poisons that are often to blame for the shortened life expectancy. I’ll have more on that in my video reports down the road.
On a brighter note- the Russians like to give gifts and Sony and I came away with flowers and candy- just for being with Charlotte.
And let me tell you – she knows everyone in Tula. We went for a swim in the city pool before dinner tonight – it’s a big old soviet era building that’s in need of repair but very popular – and all the employees greeted her like family. (this pool must be 75 meters long and 8 or 9 lanes wide with 2 diving towers – HUGE). No one splashes – don’t make waves, I guess.
Tomorrow … a couple of hospital visits along with a trip to what’s called a camp where families and children with emotional or psychiatric problems or early signs of drug abuse go for treatment. We met one of the directors at dinner tonight who tells me one of the programs there, imported from the U.S. thanks to the Tula alliance, is a big hit.
Spakoyn-eh noche ( have a peaceful night ).

our first day in Tula

Dobre vieche .. that’s phonetical for the Russian ‘good evening’.

Where do I even begin to tell you about today.

We started with a meeting at Tula’s city hall called the White House. It was a big day for Tulan officials as some Moscow big wigs were due in town. But the American visitors rated half an hour with the city manager, a most affable fellow who was happy to share his thoughts on the Albany-Tula Allliance. In short, he thinks it’s great and he was happy to brag about the soon to be re-opened maternal hospital just a few blocks from the ‘white house’… so, off we went to walk in the construction zone. It’s an ambitious project, redoing the hospital which predates the Bolshevik Revolution. Many of the amenities offered when the doors reopen in August follow conversations with Albany doctors. ie: single rooms for moms .. delivery rooms for only one woman.
From there we were off to the children’s clinic #3. Most interesting. Being an Inpatient at a clinic means someone who spends the day getting treatment and medications- not an overnight visit. Anyway, we had a tour and asked and answered dozens of questions. Perhaps the most novel thing we saw was a place where young patients get herbal teas that aim to help with their health issues.
It was also clear that while the visits between Albany physicians and other health care providers have made a difference, the Russians don’t want to diminish the value of what THEY bring to the table.
And I have to note; as my photographer Sony Stark said at our dinner with 2 Russian families this evening ‘ despite all the differences she thought existed between Americans and Russians, we’re really very much alike and she’s thankful for the chance to spend time together.
Tomorrow, off to a medical school in Tula and also to spend time with scientists who are working to reduce lead exposure to Tulans.
Spaseeba ( thank you) for reading.

Btw: I got out for a run this morning, While Tula is at the 55th parallel and Albany at the 45th the mornings are very much the same – clear and crisp. I ran around a stadium in Tula. While the paths could use some work, the park offers 4 clay tennis courts and a soccer field that’s got a “carpet’. But the Tulan’s don’t mow the grass wild grass. Also, unlike NY, I was the only one out this A.M. with an i-Pod .. no headphones in sight, only cigarettes.
And please, check out my breakfast tray – hot dogs - thankfully there was yogurt on the tray .. ( other than breakfast the food’s pretty great)

Arriving in Tula

Arriving in Tula .. June 6, 2007

All of this will reach the blog at the same time because we couldn’t get access to the internet on Tuesday in Moscow. Access was shut off in the hotel after 9pm and Wednesday morning we were out bright and early…. Off to the Kremlin, the Armorment museum and a host of magnificent ‘onion top’ museums.
First – the kremlin – the word basically means fort … every big Russian city has a kremlin – a walled area. Within the walls, the original center square. Much of what had been as in wood homes burned through the ages, much of what came later was destroyed by the Communists and now, it’s a blend of a number of meticulously cared for buildings, including the Russian Senate where Vladimir Putin’s office is located.
Within the tightly guarded museum fabulous “gift’s” given to Russian Czars through the centuries, including 9 of the remaining Faberge Eggs. They truly are magnificent. Within the eggs are surprises including a miniature boat that seems to float toward you as the egg is opened. Further in the display halls, some 10 or so carriages used by the czars and family members, including one fitted with runners for the snow. Also in the armorment museum, jewels. Seems Russia didn’t find diamonds within her borders until the mid 1950’s. After that, magnificent pieces of jewelry were commissioned but only for display. It was considered inappropriate for a Russian, particularly a Muscovite, to wear diamonds in public. The collection is so tightly guarded the IN door and OUT door can’t be opened at the same time. Heck, you’re not even allowed to bring your cameras IN with you. We had to check our cameras and cell phones.
Okay, enough travelogue – time to move onto to Russia ( oh, but we did stroll along Old Arbat Street – a pedestrian way with goods sold from kiosks as if you were on Canal Street in NYC.
And then TULA . --- yes, we arrived. It’s bustling – we meet with the Mayor in the morning. TBC.

moscow

June 4:

Tuesday afternoon in Albany as I write this: Monday night, Moscow time. Wow, the sites I’ve seen.
For a kid who grew up during the cold war, to walk in Red Square and tour St. Basil’s church is overwhelming. But some of old Russia remains. Despite all the openness here we were hassled over not having the right permit to shoot pix in the square; Seems the press permit we have doesn’t entitle us to take video pix in a federal area. OK.
But that’s the only snag so far. The people are friendly – almost everyone smokes – the women wear exceeding high heels, no running shoes to get you around town – few blue jeans but they seem to be catching on with folks over 20 - it stays light this time of year well past 10 pm – you’ll see old, babushka wearing women walking down a lane next to new subdivisions with brick houses you might find in any suburb in the states - and you’ve got to love this; we dined at a restaurant called GODENUV. Honestly. And yes, we ate Blini and Borscht.
Among our dinner companions, a couple who hail from Tula, Russia, Albany’s sister city. Now they live in Moscow. The husband, Oleg, spent 5 weeks in Albany, 7 years ago. He’s in I.T for a saving’s bank in Russia. When I asked if he learned anything special during his program at Troy Savings Bank, he shrugged his shoulders and said, not really. While he enjoyed his time in the states IMMENSELY, what he most loved were the Adirondacks and the ability to meet Americans, one on one. Says Oleg, the key to the Tula alliance is the ability for people to be linked – person to person. It’s not about governments – it’s about people.
We’re about at white nights; a time when the sun doesn’t set til way past 10pm. Despite being exhausted, it’s tough to settle down, but tomorrow we’ve got a lot of ground to cover, including a tour of the Kremlin. Then, it’s off toTula. (by the way the word for restaurant is PECTOPAH).

As we head out ...

June 4 around 3pm eastern:

Okay .. so through a deluge we cruised down to JFK in a Toyota Sienna van ., barreling through minor flooding, unscathed and dry. Michael our driver was a skilled wheelman and the perfect gentleman. The van, filled with 4 women, he laughed at all the jokes and turned a deaf ear when appropriate. He even popped open an umbrella to shield us from the rain when we made a stop. I can only hope he and the trip are a harbinger of things to come.

Despite all my trepidations that I haven’t prepared enough for this trip, I realize I’ve done what I can. Going to Russia is a lesson in letting go. In the States we can muscle our way with life. Russia, I’m learning, takes more patience and nudging. As Charlotte Buchanan, the doyen of the Albany Tula Alliance reminds me, despite the tangibles not available in Russia, many Russians do a better job of living life more fully than we in the States. But ‘stuff’ has it’s perks. We’re cooling our heels until flight time in the Delta Elite Lounge.

And we're off

After a few nailbiting hours of not knowing if my passport had returned from the visa bureau, all is right with the world .. at least for this moment.
"all my bags are packed and I'm ready to go" ...

Antibacterial handiwipes .. check
Tissue packets .. check
Moola .. soon to be check .. Russia wants only pristine bills
Shoes for walking .. ah, there's the rub. I've been advised not to tromp around town in my running shoes, not formal enough, too tourista .. still have to pair down a pair ..
Plane tix .. check
My vocabulary cheat sheet .. CHECK ..

First stop .. Moscow ... check

( check my post dated may 31 for trip details)